Osaka

Why Osaka works

Osaka carries a reputation within Japan as the country's food capital and its most easygoing major city, summed up in the local phrase kuidaore — to eat oneself into ruin. Dotonbori's canal-side strip, lit by giant mechanical signs including the running Glico Man, is the epicentre of that food culture, with takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) sold from stalls that have operated for generations. Osaka Castle, rebuilt in concrete in the 1930s after the original was destroyed, still commands its moated park with a keep offering views over the surrounding city and museum exhibits on the castle's role in unifying Japan under Toyotomi Hideyoshi in the 16th century. Shinsekai, an early 20th-century entertainment district built around the Tsutenkaku Tower, retains a retro, slightly gritty charm distinct from the polish of central Osaka, and remains one of the best areas for kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers). Kuromon Ichiba Market's covered alleys sell fresh seafood, wagyu, and seasonal produce for eating on the spot, while a short train ride delivers you to Universal Studios Japan or the historic temple town of Nara, home to freely roaming sacred deer. Osaka's relative lack of pretension compared to Tokyo — direct, funny, food-obsessed — makes it a favourite among repeat visitors to Japan.

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